{"id":12476,"date":"2022-08-19T04:20:08","date_gmt":"2022-08-19T04:20:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/substantial-mirror.flywheelstaging.com\/?p=12476"},"modified":"2022-08-19T04:35:53","modified_gmt":"2022-08-19T04:35:53","slug":"headset-press","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.firstcomponents.com\/de\/headset-press\/","title":{"rendered":"What is a Headset Press? (and How to Use It)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A headset press is used to press bearing cups\u2014that take caged bearings or sealed bearings\u2014into the top and bottom of the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The headset\u2019s other components then slot into place over and around the (threaded or unthreaded) fork steerer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A headset press used to be one of the most important tools on the shelf.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now that integrated headsets dominate bike design you don\u2019t need one . . . except if you\u2019re a bike shop or you\u2019re into maintaining or restoring bikes that predate the change to integrated headsets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here’s what you need to know.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CONTENTS<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Headset Press Components<\/strong><\/a>
Removal Tool<\/a>
Headset Press Parts<\/a>
Using a Headset Press<\/strong><\/a>
DIY Headset Press: 2 Examples<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Headset Press Components<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n


Headset press tools come in various configurations. But all consist of handles which thread onto a shaft.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some sort of bearing assembly sits between the threaded handle piece and the upper block. The upper block slots into\u2014and locks against\u2014the sectioned shaft, although on some models the shaft is threaded right the way along. The lower block is held in place by a nut.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Headset Removal Tool<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n


Since a headset removal precedes most headset installations<\/a> and upgrades, a cup removal tool is a necessary complement to the headset press itself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A headset removal tool is simply a split piece of pipe. The split ends are flared outwards to a circumference that fits head tubes from 1\u201d up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sliding the impact end of the removal tool through the end containing the cup to be removed contracts the blades which snap out and lock against the cup having passed through the cup into the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A few hammer blows on the tool\u2019s impact end is enough to pop the cup out of the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Headset Press Parts<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n


Most headset press tools have detachable handles which thread into the top piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Headset<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Detachable handles make it easy for the manufacturer to ship the tool. When fully assembled it\u2019s easier to keep them in place; use them to hang the tool alongside others on the tool rack.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Headset<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The mechanism works by rotating the top piece on the threaded shaft which pulls the upper and lower blocks (on which the cups are mounted) towards each other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Headset<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The bearing sits between the top piece and the upper block which allows easy rotation of the handles which in turn makes for smooth installation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Rod with bearing and top block<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The top block consists of three sections each decreasing in size in order to accommodate every cup size.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although some cups may not fit exactly against the upper edge of a section, one section will fit at least partially into a cup more or less matched to its size. Correct installation technique becomes crucial where the fit is partial since a cup can skew sideways during the install.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Headset<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Each of the six notches in the shaft is a stop for the lower block\u2014a sliding bracket slots into the notch holding the block and its cup firm at that point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Head tubes range from very short to very long so most notches don\u2019t align exactly with most head tubes. The remedy is to take up the slack by giving the top piece a few turns which firms the upper block and lower block against the top tube top and bottom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Headset<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On this model, the lower block is locked against the shaft via a locking piece that rotates 10 degrees or so around the axis of the Allen bolt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shaped like a keyhole, the diameter of the wider opening is the same as the shaft which allows the shaft to pass through easily when selecting the most appropriate notch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rotating the locking piece slides the lower part of the keyhole into to the notch; lock it by tightening the Allen bolt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Using a Headset Press<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n


Using a headset press is not about pressing \u201cheadsets\u201d at all\u2014what gets pressed are the cups that contain the caged or sealed bearings <\/a>which sit snugly within a headset assembly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The only thing that can go wrong is not seating the cups squarely in the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As long as you seat the cups squarely on the headset press\u2019s upper and lower blocks, then apply consistent gentle pressure, the blocks will press the cups into the head tube smoothly and perfectly. This section shows you how to make that happen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There\u2019s not much that can go wrong using a headset press.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most cups fit squarely on one of the three sections (in this case). The job, then, is to monitor them during the installation and avoid either cup becoming too crooked in the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
The cup slots squarely onto the section<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The first move is to set the top cup into position on the top block.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The cup slides up the notched shaft. Once in position you slide the shaft down into the head tube lowering the headset press\u2019s top block with the mounted cup onto the top of the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Attaching and fixing the lower block into position is next.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mount the lower cup onto onto a section that fits into it on the block; you then slide the block up the shaft to where the cup makes contact with the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What about applying grease to the cups?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many mechanics don\u2019t apply any grease. Many do. Depending on who you talk to it\u2019s optional or essential with valid reasons for and against on both sides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bottom line, it\u2019s a personal decision. FYI, no grease was used during the installation featured in these images.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The last step is to slide the locking piece into the notch. Providing the Allen bolt on the lower surface is tight enough this piece will hold in place in the notch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Beginning
Beginning the installation<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Holding the lower piece in place, turning the handles slowly takes up the slack as the lower block firms against the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then you turn the handles 1\/4 at a time carefully noting whether either the top cup or lower cup starts to enter the head tube at too sharp an angle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cups usually don\u2019t stay square to the head tube and routinely begin skewing slightly to one side or the other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As long as the angle is not too acute, a crooked cup will straighten up in the last few millimeters of the install and end up firmly installed in the head tube.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Check out the complete installation process using a headset press tool in our video detailing a threaded headset upgrade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n